This was the morning for the long hike. Presidential traverse from Mitzpah to Monroe with a bail out point at Lakes in the Cloud. I had booked a bunk for Jacob and I at both huts just in case the weather wouldn’t allow the traverse. I always figured it would be 50:50 for weather to cooperate even in the summer for any given day. We didn’t have the luxury of picking our days, we just had to book the bunks and hope the weather cooperated. Last night didn’t sound very good with temp in the 40’s with winds 35-45mph gusting to 60mph and wind chill in the low 30’s. I figured we might have to wait til later in the morning and just take our time and make the 5.0 miles to Lakes. When we got up this morning, it was cold in the low 40’s but I just didn’t see the wind. I wondered if we were sheltered or maybe you wouldn’t see it until the top of Washington. At any rate, I was pretty sure we would make Lakes no problem and would just have to see how the morning progressed. It was time to plan for a full day, just in case the weather allowed the full traverse.
Breakfast was plentiful with oatmeal, scrambled eggs, bacon, muffins, and coffee. We both ate plenty. We filled our water bottles about 3/4 carrying just over a liter. It was only 5.0 miles to Lakes and didn’t need to carry ay more than necessary. Left a nice tip for the Croo and donned our packs, eager to see what the day would bring.
On trail 8:15am
Despite the clear sunrise by the time we got on the trail at 8:15 we were fogged in and it was cold out. Thank goodness Jacob had is pajama bottoms and I had my brother-in-law’s long johns. I had grabbed them last minute when I saw cold weather. It didn’t take long to start removing layers. They wind was not blowing strong and it was straight up from the hut to ascend Mt. Pierce. Me made it to the top of Pierce by 8:45am.
We were in the clouds from Pierce over to Eisenhower arriving at 9:45am, the sky cleared at 10:15 and you could see it was gonna be an epic day! With the clouds clearing, the forecasters said you could see 130 miles. I believe it. All the smoke from fires and humidity had been washed away. Don’t think I’ve ever seen a more clear day and more perfect day for hiking. Was thinking I would not want to have been up there if it was 70 degrees like they had had often that summer. The cool air was just enough to make it pleasant as you worked against the up and down of the open ridge.
At 11:25 am we summitted Mt. Monroe and could clearly see the top of Mt. Washington ahead of us with the buildings that supported the tourism of the auto road and cog railway.
We covered the 5.0 miles and 2200 feet of elevation gain to Lakes hut in 3:30 hours arriving at 11:45am. After using the restroom to remove my long johns and filling our water bottles, I talked with Lakes Croo to see what they thought the time would be to make it over to Madison Hut. They said 5-7 hours depending on whether we were summitting all the Presidentials. I figured they were being conservative and with the weather, we just just Do It. We didn’t stay but a couple minutes and made haste for the top of Mt. Washington where we knew there was a cafeteria and lunch. I told the Croo we would not be using the reservation that night and to give both of them to Thru Hikers. The Croo commented that no one had ever done that before. Despite spending an extra $600 for two nights of hut reservations that wouldn’t be used by us, it was the smart thing to do for giving us the best chance of completing the trip. At least some thru hikers would get a couple nice meals.
We left the Lakes of the Clouds hut at 11:50am heading to Mt. Washington.
It took 1:10 to climb Mt Washington and were in the cafeteria at 1 pm. While we may have been able to got up their faster…it just seemed like a shame not to stop and take pictures and set a pace that allowed us to take in the beauty of the White Mountains spread out around us. We used rest room and filled up on food. It was crowded with tourists and I was a little annoyed. Couldn’t get near the sign that said we were on top of Mt Washington as all those that drove up were standing in line for a pic.
We left Mt. Washington at 1:40pm and messaged family to let them know we were doing well and heading to Madison Hut. With all the tourists up there they had a cell tower to provide service. A luxury (or a curse) for most of our hikes.
It appeared that the old steam cog railway locomotives had been replaced. All we saw was three seperate locomotives that followed each other up and down the tracks and they were not coal/steam locomotives. Upon investigation these are biodiesel powered locomotives that are temporarily replacing the historic steam/coal locomotives, while the older locomotives are refurbished. The historic locomotives will return in 2026. It just didn’t feel the same seeing these temporary locomotives going up and down with no smoke pouring from the stacks and the missing sound of them chugging along…these temporaries were more like subway cars.
On the way to Jefferson
Summitted Jefferson 3:50pm, it was the hardest yet. I was exhausted. The top was all rocks with no flat spots to rest. There were others up there so it was uncomfortable. The rock hopping up was exhausting having to watch every step and not really sure where the trail was because there wasn’t one. Just pick out a line of boulders and make your way. There were plenty of cairns for a Winter traverse. If you looked closely you could see where the hikers had worn the rocks to outline a trail. At the bottom of Jefferson we ran across a thru hiker who just plopped down a chair and was taking in the sun. From around the bend came another thru hiker I had talked with at the Mitzpah hut the night before. He said he was heading to the Madison hut also, but wasn’t going over Adams.
We made it to the top of Adams at 5:36pm. I take it back, Adams was the hardest, probably because I was already exhausted from Jefferson. Knees, ankles, and feet hurting. Now more than ever you needed to be careful with each step. This was the time in the hike…toward the end, where you get lazy and take a tumble.
Down Adams very carefully and slowly to get to the Hut at 6:26pm late for dinner.
This guy launched off of Jefferson behind us. He just kept going for miles down into the Valley unpowered. Just gliding along.
So we made the 7.5 miles from Lakes hut to Madison hut in 5:30 hours. There was 3000 ft of elevation gain. Up and down, 1200ft, 800ft, and 1000ft for each of Washington, Jefferson, and Adams.
You couldn’t see the Madison hut until the last 1/4 mile. It was tucked in at the base of Madison. It was a welcome sight knowing dinner and rest awaited us, but #48 loomed large in the background.
We got some raised eyebrows from diners, but to heck with em. The Croo sat us at a table and people slid over to make room. This hut was at capacity and we got there last. Most of the overnighters had just come up for the road and were either just staying the night and heading back down or were heading to Lakes the next day. Not many would do the entire traverse like we had done. We got the last two bunks on the 3rd level of the bunkroom with a very tall ladder. We also got the last of the food, unlike the night before. There would be no seconds for me except for the gluten free pasta they had left over. I gladly ate it as there was plenty of the curry dish still there, just needed something to put it on. Only a couple of pieces of bread with my soup and some really bad peas….but we had chocolate cake again! Only one piece this time though.
After dinner we had a thru hiker try to engage us and play a game or just do something. We were exhausted and I felt bad telling him we just wanted to go to bed. He seemed surprised and disappointed. Jacob was able to get a little cell service and catch up with his girlfriend Gabi.
Was exhausted and in bed by 9 lights out 9:30. It was a cold night. 7am it was 38 degrees on top Mt Washington, but another day of 130 mi viz, with that front on first day clearing out the smoke from Canada wild fires.
LEAVING THE BELOW NOTES FOR HISTORIC CONTEXT ON MY PLANNING OF THIS PRESIDENTIAL TRAVERSE
Save the below for a 4 day – 3 night hike of Presidentials after his Senior Year – 8 peaks
Planning for this could be tricky because you will need an overnight in Mitzpah Spring, Lake in Clouds, and Madison Springs hut. These reservations need to be made in advance and need to be consecutive nights. You hope for good weather. The Presidentials are all open ridge hiking and the weather can be vicious even in the summer with 50mph winds, lightening, rain, fog. You just can’t do it with crummy weather. May need to make multiple reservations and hope for the best because you want this last finale to be a great one. If concerned about weather and making it across the Presidential ridge, could make reservations at Lake in Clouds and Madison Springs just in case weather got bad.
Check out this page to be prepared and make sure I follow rules in case a rescue might be needed.
https://www.wildlife.state.nh.us/outdoor-recreation/hiking-safety.html
Mt. Isolation then over to Mitzpah hut
Would need to figure out parking at trailhead. Either Rocky Branch trailhead parking off of Rte 16 or at the Glen Boulder Tr parking lot further north up Rte 16. Depending on how we are going to get home at end of 3 day hike we may need to drop another car early in day at either Great Gulf trailhead further up Rte 16 or at Appalachia parking lot off Rte 2 West of Gorham if coming down Valley Way from Madison.
The easiest route up is the Rocky Branch trail. It is in the woods and so would be protected from weather and it is moderate in its climb over 6.5 miles. Book is 3:45 but I’m guessing we could do it closer to 3 miles. Get reports on mud and river crossings for which there are quite a few. Have Dad drop us here if we are doing entire traverse.
The optional route up is via the Glen Boulder but it is much harder. Starting out very steep and going up to 5200ft then back down to 4000ft. It is open and rocky most of the way up. If we are up for a good workout and the weather is good, this might be the route to take, book is 4.5 hours for 6 miles. This would include checking out Glen Boulder and Glen Ellis Falls which is supposed to be cool. The view on the way up are said to be fantastic
Davis Path at the top of both trails is relatively flat over to Mt. Isolation. The 360 views at Isolation are fantastic. There is a survey marker at top, so make sure you see it to verify at the top.
https://www.summitpost.org/mount-isolation/154580
Back track 1.2 mi on the Davis Path to continue on Isolation Path to the West. You are now heading into the Dry River Wilderness. Need to check on trail conditions. The route to Mitzpah is lightly travelled and the trails could be hard to pick up and assume not well maintained. Descend 1500’ over 2.2 miles on the Isolation Tr. to the Dry River Tr. There is water along this trail at the bottom half so it could be filtered. Go right on Dry River Tr for a short 0.2 mi and then left on Mt Eisenhower Tr for 0.3 miles losing 100ft. After turning on to Dry River Tr. for 0.1 mi, you should hear Dry River falls on the left. It is marked but there should be a spur that would take you out there. Nice place to take a swim. You will then go left on Dry River Cutoff and starting ascending again. After 1.5 mi. and 800 ft you reach the Mt. Clinton Tr. Right on to Mt Clinton Tr for 0.4 mi and 350ft takes you to Mitzpah Hut. We want to be there by 5:30 so we can be cleaned up for dinner at 6pm.
Mitzpah Hut to Madison Springs Hut
Here’s a trip report of a section hiker going from Madison to Mitzpah – this will be aggressive
Mitzpah to Lakes in the Cloud is 5.0 mi and 3:40 book, Lakes in Cloud to Madison Hut is 7.4 mi and 5:50 book. Need to investigate this more, not sure if these times include summitting the 4000 ft peaks.
https://trailzealot.com/appalachian-trail/day-24-madison-spring-hut-to-mizpah-spring-hut/
Pierce-Eisenhower-Monroe-Washington-Jefferson-Adams
Breakfast at hut will be 7 am and so we could be on trail by 7:45 if we are packed prior to breakfast. It is
It is 4.6 miles and 3 hours book from Mitzpah Hut to Lake in Clouds
It is 6.6 miles and 4.5 hours book from Lake in Clouds hut to Madison Springs Hut
So this would be a 12 mi hike taking 8 hours with stops. MUST have good weather or wouldn’t make it. Dinner is at 6pm at hut.
This is pretty aggressive and is probably a better idea to just stop at Lake in Clouds? Maybe we have family meet us up there? Could we have lunch atop Mt. Washington. Is there other local hiking we would want to do. If we stop Lake in Clouds, we are going to have a lot of time there until dinner and bed.
Madison Springs Hut to Madison to Road – DONE!
After summiting Madison, the easiest path down is Valley Way. It is in the woods and protected from weather, but there are no views. We probably won’t care about that at then end of hike. It is 3.9 miles and 3 hours book from Madison. The alternate route would be the Osgood Tr. to the Great Gulf Tr. This is steeper with better views 4.6 miles and 3.5 hours book. Car would have to be parked at Great Gulf trailhead on rte 16.
Pierce – Eisenhower – 8.3mi 6hrs plus 2.3 road walk for loop but don’t have to do loop as this is on a road – could just go to Eisenhower and backtrack- do this with Jen – If you took 2 cars, you don’t need to do the 2.3 mi road walk. Take in Mitzpah Spring Hut – this is above treeline and want to do on a clear day and warm. These could also be done in day hike, stay at Highland Ctr, then do Tom, Field, Willey or could be done as a complete traverse of Presidentials from Madison to Pierce staying in Madison hut first night, and Lake in Clouds second night, then end at Highland Ctr the third day..
Monroe – Mt Washington
Could try to combine Isolation, Monroe and Washington. This would be ambitious and would require an early year reservation at Lake in Cloud Hut. Park at Pinkham Notch Lodge, hike to Mt. Isolation via Glen Boulder, then back to Lake in Clouds Hut. Mt. Monroe and Washington the next day and descend via Tuckerman Tr and Ravine Tr then back to Pinkham Notch Lodge.
https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/new-hampshire/mount-monroe-via-mount-washington
Washington-Monroe via the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail is a 9.9 mi loop, 4400 ft elevation gain
Saw a note about parking at the cog and paying the $10 parking fee being a good idea
Saw a note that Jefferson could be added to this hike for not too much extra effort.
Ran into a father-daughter at Carter Notch hut who had climbed Washington (via Tuckerman tr) and went across to Madison and stayed at Madison hut. Not sure if they traversed the other Presidentials in one day or just went to Madison hut. Had others tell me that I should not climb Washington via Tuckerman but take the longer route like Boot Spur because it is nicer and less trafficked. Tuckerman is entirely open rocks with the trail not clearly defined.
Jefferson – Adams – Madison – overnight in hut – via Northern Presidentials traverse
Mount Madison offers one of the steepest, most challenging rock scrambles of the entire trail, gaining 2,812 feet over a 2.6-mile span (a more than 20% incline). The most feasible approach to this day hike is the southbound version, parking at the Joe Dodge Lodge at Pinkham Notch and following the Old Jackson Road to Madison Gulf to Great Gulf Trail to Osgood Cutoff to Osgood Trails, and then back for a total distance of 14.6 miles round-trip. The summit is well above tree line and offers stunning views of The Whites without all the fuss found at Mount Washington. Get an early start for this one. If you stay overnight in the Madison Spring Hut you can do Adams and Jefferson the next day before returning to road. I see people that do Madison-Adams-Jefferson as a day hike, but I also see that Jefferson is done with Monroe and Washington and so it wouldn’t need to be done with Madison-Adams. So the Presidentials could be done without an overnight stay in hut. If you did a hut, you would do Madison the first day and stay in the Madison Spring hut that night, the next day do Adams, Jefferson, Washington, Monroe, then back to road. This would require dropping a car at either the Cog railway parking lot or the head of Jewell/Ammonoosuc Tr head. Then driving back around to Rte 16 and park at Dolly Campground for Daniel Webster Tr to Madison or Great Gulf Trailhead parking to take Osgood or Madison-Gulf Tr to top of Madison.
I also saw someone do a day hike of Madison (great gulf to Osgood), Adams, Jefferson, Washington returning via Tuckerman Ravine Tr.
https://sectionhiker.com/great-hikes-a-presidential-traverse/
Presidential Traverse
The entire Presidentials from Pierce to Madison can be done with a single overnight at Lake in Clouds. Look at it closer, but there are people that do this as a day hike. Isolation could be included with an overnight in Mitzpah, making the traverse of the Presidentials with an overnight at Lake in Clouds even easier. The biggest issue is weather and how you book nights in huts not knowing the weather. Check out the saved hikes I have in Favorites at http://www.alltrails.com
http://www.hikethewhites.com/lakesiso/index.html
https://bmhatfield.github.io/white-mountains/hut-traverse.html
Here is a blog of a guy that did the traverse:
The Presidential Traverse